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"Mode, vêtement et société en Europe durant la Première Guerre mondiale"

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Colloque international, 12-13 décembre 2014, IFM, labellisé par la Mission Centenaire, avec le mécénat de l’Oréal, Recherche et Innovation

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Toutes les informations relatives au colloque se trouvent sur :

http://wwifashion.com/

Pour vous inscrire :

https://www.weezevent.com/fashion-dress-and-society-in-europe-during-world-war-i.

Pour toute question, contactez Maude Bass-Krueger et Sophie Kurkdjian :

europeanfashionwwi@gmail.com

Vendredi 12 décembre 2014

8h30-9:30 Accueil et Café de bienvenue (foyer de l’IFM)

9:30-9:40 : MOTS D’ACCUEIL, Dominique JACOMET, directeur de l’IFM

9 :40-9 :50 PRESENTATION GENERALE, Maude Bass-KRUEGER, PhD candidate, Bard Graduate Center, New York, Sophie KURKDJIAN, PhD, chercheur associée IHTP, Paris

9:50-10:00 : INTRODUCTION, Dominique VEILLON, Directrice de Recherche CNRS

Session I, amphithéâtre Yves Saint Laurent

10:00-10:20 Mary Lynn Stewart (Professor Emerita, Simon Fraser University, British Columbia, Canada): “Wartime Marketing of Haute Couture in America”

10:20-10:40 *Catherine Join-Dieterle (former Director of the Musée Galliera, Paris): « L’Art et la Mode pendant la grande Guerre »

10:40-11:00 *Adelheid Rasche (Conservateur en Chef, Staatliche Museen zu Berlin, Allemagne) : ""Wardrobes in Wartime": Une publication récente sur l’image de la mode à Paris, Vienne et Berlin pendant la Première Guerre Mondiale"

11:00-11:15 QUESTIONS

11:15-11:40 PAUSE (foyer de l’IFM)

Session II, amphithéâtre Yves Saint Laurent

11:40-12:00 Amy de la Haye (Professor, University of the Arts, London): “'Cinderellas in Breeches: the uniform worn by Britain's Women's Land Army'”

12:00-12:20 Alexandra Palmer (Fashion Costume Senior Curator and Chair, Royal Ontario Museum, Canada): "WWI garments from the Royal Ontario Museum"

12:20-12:40 *Lourdes Font (Professor, Fashion Institute of Technology, NYC): "Les Américains à Paris: couturiers, acheteurs et journalistes, 1910-1920"

12:40-12:55 QUESTIONS

12:55-14:15 DEJEUNER, FOIRE AUX LIVRES (foyer de l’IFM)

Session III, amphithéâtre Yves Saint Laurent

14:15-14:35 Victoria Rovine (Associate Professor, College of Fine Arts at the University of Florida): "The colonial context – French fashion design and the representation of Le Soudan Français"

14:35-14:55 Margaret Vining (Curator), Barton C. Hacker, (Ph.D, senior curator), Division of Armed Forces History, National Museum of American History, Smithsonian : “Uniforms Re-Fashion the Woman, 1914–1918”

14:55-15:15 *Guillaume de Syon (Professor, Albright College, Pennsylvania, USA): “Rushing to Suit Up: French Aviation’s adjustment to Wartime, 1914-1916”

15:15-15:30 QUESTIONS

15:30-16:00 PAUSE (foyer de l’IFM)

Session IV, amphithéâtre Yves Saint Laurent

16:00-16:20 Patricia Tilburg (Associate Professor, Davidson College, USA): "Le poilu et la midinette: goût, érotisme, et les ouvrières parisiennes pendant la Grande Guerre"

16:20-16:40 *Marguerite Coppens (Curator of the Lace and costumes at the Royal Art and History Museums, Brussels): “L’industrie vestimentaire et dentellière en particulier. Les réactions belges et françaises pour en stimuler l’activité pendant le conflit »

16:40-17:00 Lou Taylor (Professor, University of Brighton, UK): "High Society Women in Britain and their Contribution to the War Effort "

17:00-17:15 QUESTIONS

17:15-17:30 CONCLUSION: Adelheid RASCHE

SAMEDI, 13 décembre 2014

8h30:00-9:00 Accueil et Café de bienvenue (foyer de l’IFM)

Session I : Iconographie et discours dans la presse féminine durant la guerre / Iconography and writings inthe wartime fashion press (amphithéâtre YSL)

9:00-9:20 *Nuria Aragonès (PhD, University of Barcelona/ Paris III, Sorbonne): « Iconographie de la presse féminine à Paris pendant la Première Guerre Mondiale : la représentation d’une femme nouvelle »

9:20-9:40 Burcu Dogramaci (Professor, LMU, Munich): “The Politics of Fashion: German Fashion (Writings) in War Times”

9:40-10:00 *Nigel Lezama (Professor, Brock University, Ontario, Canada): « Le Flambeau. Le discours vestimentaire pendant la Grande Guerre : pour une féminité rétrograde? »

10:00-10:20 Alisa Miller (Research Fellow, Norwich University of the Arts, UK): “Gladys Peto and the Sketch: Elite consumer culture and the changing image of the modern woman, 1914 to 1919”

10:20-10:30 QUESTIONS

Session I : Femme et mode en images durant la guerre: photographies et press/ Images of women and of fashion during the war in photographs and in the press (salle 0.1)

9:00-9:20 *Muriel Berthou Crestey (Researcher, ITEM, CNRS): « Les photographies du baron Adolf de Meyer dans Vogue : formes, représentations, idéologies »

9:20-9:40 Cally Blackman (Lecturer, Central Saint Martins, University of the Arts, London): “True Colours: dress and fashion during the Great War in autochromes from Albert Kahn’s Archives de la Planète.”

9:40-10:00 Änne Söll (Research fellow, Institute for Arts and Media, University of Potsdam, Germany): "The First World War in the Viennese Fashion Journal Die Herrenwelt, 1916-1917"

10:00-10:20 Enrica Morini (IULM University, Milano) :« Margherita: la guerre, les femmes et la mode en Italie.

10:20-10:30 QUESTIONS

Session I : Tissus, couleurs et tendances durant la guerre/Textiles, colors, and forecasting during Première Guerre mondiale (salle 1.4)

9:00-9:20 Regina Lee Blaszczyk (Professor, University of Leeds, UK): ”Yankee Ingenuity Confronts Paris Fashion: The Hidden History of How World War I Shaped Color Practice in the American Fashion Business”

9:20-9:40 *Thierry Maillet (University of Erasmus, Rotterdam): “WWI fashion prediction: Paris' centrality for color and sample cards”

9:40-10:00 Eva Maria Zangl (PhD candidate Karl-Franzens, University of Graz, Austria): “Man-made fibres. Artificial Silk in Germany and Austria during the First World War”

10:00-10:20 Margherita Rosina (Director, Museo Studio del Tessuto Fondazione Antonio Ratti, Como): "War-time silk production in the collection of the Fondazione Antonio Ratti"

10:20-10:30 QUESTIONS

10:30-10:55 PAUSE (foyer de l’IFM)

Session II: Haute couture et couturiers durant la Première Guerre mondiale/ Haute Couture and couturiers during the war (amphithéâtre YSL)

11:00-11:20 Ana Balda (University of Navarra, Spain): "(PhD, Pr. University of Navarra, Spain): “World War I and its consequences on the consumption of French Haute Couture by Spanish royalty, aristocracy and high bourgeoisie”

11:20-11:40 *Emmanuelle Polle (journalist, France) & Johanna Zanon (PhD candidate, University of Oslo): “De la baïonnette aux ciseaux, les premières années de Jean Patou »

11:40-12:00 *Sophie Kurkdjian (PhD, chercheur associée IHTP/CNRS, Paris): "La presse de mode au secours de la haute couture et soutien à l’effort de guerre : les publications de Lucien Vogel (Gazette du bon ton, Style Parisien, Élégances parisiennes)"

12:00-12:20 Katy Conover (Researcher, Victoria and Albert Museum, London): “Fashion in Conflict: Haute couture in England”

12:20-12:30 QUESTIONS

Session II : Regards croisés sur la mode européenne et au-delà durant la guerre/ Fashion in Europe and beyond, 1914-1918 (salle 0.1)

11:00-11:20 Ulrika Berglund (PhD candidate, Centre for Fashion Studies, Stockholm University): “The neutrality policy and fashion culture in Sweden, 1914-1918”

11:20-11:40 Sara Hume (Curator/Assistant Professor, Kent State University Museum): “Between fashion and folk – dress practices in Alsace during WWI”

11:40-12:00 Chryssa Mantaka (Assistant Professor of Costume Design at the School of Drama, Aristotle University, Thessaloniki): " Dress in Salonica during the Great War, mapping the sartorial profile of the era"

12:00-12:20 Anna Novikov (PhD, Deutsches Historisches Institut, Warsaw): “I dress my Empire!” Fashion and patriotism in partitioned Poland during WWI”

12:20-12:30 QUESTIONS

Session II : Créateurs de mode et artistes durant la guerre/ Fashion designers and artists during the war (salle 1.4)

11:00-11:20 *Nele Bernheim (PhD candidate, University of Antwerp): “Fashion in Belgium during the Great War and the case of Norine“

11:20-11:40 Maria Carlgren (PhD candidate, University of Gothenburg, Sweden): "Wartime Fashion - Two Positions during WWI: Stockholm and Paris, and the collections of the artists Valle Rosenberg and Siri Derkert"

11:40-12:00 Victoria Pass (Salisbury University, Maryland, USA): “Chanel, Duchamp and the rise of celebrity culture during WWI”

12:00-12:20 Lewis Orchard (Textile designer, London): “The Contrast: Lucile Ltd in Europe and the USA 1914-1918”

12:20-12:30 QUESTIONS

12:30-14:00 : REPAS, FOIRE AUX LIVRES(avec les dédicaces de Dominique Veillon et Didier Grumbach) (foyer de l’IFM)

Session III : La mode de guerre dans les archives/ War fashion in the archives (amphithéâtre YSL)

14:00-14:20 Beatrice Behlen (Senior Curator, Fashion and Decorative Arts, Museum of London): «”War Relics”: collecting and displaying the Great War»

14:20-14:40 Elena Trencheva (Post-Doctoral Researcher in Costume Design, Aalto University; Joanna Weckman, MA, Doctoral student, Aalto University : "Forgotten Archives: Visual Representations of the Finnish identity during WWI through dress in the medium of film"

14:40-15:00 Georgina Ripley (Curator, Modern & Contemporary Fashion & Textiles, National Museums of Scotland): “Gladdening the hearts of warriors: the relationship between Lucile’s romantic fashions and morale in WWI”

15:00-15:20 Jennifer Roberts (PhD scholar, University of Brighton, UK):“The Munitionettes Trousered Uniform; an exploration of the discourses of femininity articulated in images of the Munitionettes of WW1”

15:20-15:30 QUESTIONS

Session III : Femmes et identités, 1914-1918/ Women and identity during the war (salle 0.1)

14:00-14:20 June Rowe (PhD candidate, University of the Arts, London): "Early English femininities & wartime change"

14:20-14:40 Andrea Kollnitz (Assistant Professor, Center for Fashion Studies, Stockholm University): "Is beauty useless? Visual Fashion Discourse and British Wartime Society in Punch 1915”

14:40-15:00 Maude Bass-Krueger (PhD candidate, Bard Graduate Center, NYC): "La Parisienne et Le Poilu: Fictions and fantasies of fashionable women and their soldiers during the War"

15:00-15:20 Ilaria Coser (Independent scholar, UK): Women fashion journalists, 1914-1918

15:20-15:30 QUESTIONS

Session III : Les femmes dans la guerre , 1914-1918/ Women during the Great War (salle 1.4)

14:00-14:20 Emily Brayshaw (PhD candidate, University of Technology, Sydney, Australia): "The Quill is Mightier than the Sword: The Origin of the Feathered Showgirl in WWI Paris"

14:20-14:40 Gillian Davies (Retired Professor, Savannah College of Art and Design, USA): “An accredited agent of France: Elsie de Wolfe?”

14:40-15:00 Alan Price (Retired Professor, Pennsylvania State University): "What They Wore to War" looks at American women volunteers in France from 1914-1917”

15:00-15:20 Birgit Haase (Professor, University of Applied Sciences, Hamburg, Germany): “La Crinoline de Guerre: a Feminine Fashion between Past and Future”

15:20-15:30 QUESTIONS

15 :30-16:30 : Pause (foyer de l’IFM)

Session IV : La mode masculine durant la Première Guerre mondiale/ Male fashion during the war (amphithéâtre YSL)

16:00-16:20 *Manuel Charpy (Chargé de recherche, iRHis, Lille3, CNRS): «Détournements d’uniformes pendant et aux lendemains de la Première Guerre mondiale»

16:20-16:40 Jennifer Daley (PhD candidate, King’s College, London) “The Marketing of Patriotism: The Political Usage of Sailor Fashion during the First World War, 1914-1918”

16:40-17:00 *Stéphane Jacques-Addade (Art Historian and Member of the European Chamber of Art Experts, France): "Bernard Boutet de Monvel, un dandy dans la guerre, ou l'évolution de l'uniforme "à l'anglaise", 1914-1918”

17:00-17:20 *Zsolt Mészáros (PhD candidate, Eötvös Loránd University Budapest) : "Quand le gentleman devient ennemi. La mode masculine dans la presse hongroise (1914-1918)"

17:20-17:30 QUESTIONS

Session IV : Beauté et apparence durant la guerre/Beauty and appearance during the war (salle 0.1)

16:00-16:20 "Holly Grout (Professor, University of Alabama, USA): «”Le miracle et le mirage”: Beauty Institutes and the Making of Modern Women»

16:20-16:40 *Nadège Sougy (Assistant Professor, University of Neuchâtel, Switzerland): Warheads and patriotic jewelry

16:40-17:00 *Steven Zdatny (Pr. University of Vermont, USA), “The War, the Hair, and the ‘New Woman’: The Impact of War on French Coiffure”

17:00-17:20 QUESTIONS

Session IV : Production et consommation, 1914-1918/ Wartime production and consumption (salle 1.4)

16:00-16:20 Suzanne Rowland (Lecturer, University of Brighton, UK): "An investigation into the rise of the fashionable mass-produced blouse in Britain, 1914-1918: A material culture assessment of design, manufacture and consumption”

16:20-16:40 *Marta Kargol (PhD, Jagiollonski University, Krakow): “Neutral in war = neutral in dress? Changing practices in dress production and home-made clothing in the Netherlands during the Great War “

16:40-17:00 Marie Mcloughlin (Senior Lecturer, University of Brighton, UK): “The evolution of the trench coat, from War Office to High Street”

17:00-17:20 *Laura Casal-Valls (PhD, Université de Barcelona, Spain): "La fabrication et la consommation du vêtement féminin à Barcelone pendant la WWI : effets et conséquences du conflit (1914-1918)"

17:20-17:30 QUESTIONS

17:30-18:00 CONCLUSION GENERALE, Lou Taylor & REMERCIEMENTS, Maude Bass-Krueger et Sophie Kurkdjian

*Communications en français

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